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London Fashion Week fall 2018 is here, and we are already crying. Often seen as the rebellious, riotous Fashion Week, this LFW is currently nothing but a sentimental array of fall 2018 runway collections to watch, as they feature both painfully beautiful artsy references and some of the fashion industry’s saddest goodbyes.
Grab some tissues and get ready to dive into Mulberry’s spring 2018 revolution, Christopher Bailey’s departure from Burberry, and Mary Katrantzou’s fall 2018 Bauhaus party!
Mulberry Spring/ Summer 2018 RTW Collection
LFW is usually a celebration of both the British style and cosmopolitan issues, with many designers often accentuating the UK’s multicultural (and colonial) past at their runway shows. When it comes to Mulberry’s runway presentation, which is always one of LFW’s most anticipated shows, creative director Johnny Coca took the fashion house’s first see-now-buy-now collection to Spencer House, reviving all things British for his Mulberry spring 2018 collection.
With that being Mulberry’s debut with the see-now-buy-now formula, Coca had Alison Goldfrapp performed on stage, hitting it big and delivering a well-constructed show, for sure.
As for the line-up per se, those who love multi-colored collections surely have something to add to their spring 2018 wish lists, indeed. Coca’s inspiration “was a mix of the British countryside and a massive collection of porcelain belonging to one of my friends,” which, translated to fashion, meant flowy figures, cascades of frills, and overall monochrome looks paired with hats even the Queen would very likely wear.
Pompous yet not tackily luxurious, the collection definitely managed to remind us of a British garden, and we bet all those pink satin blouses and skirts are flying off the shelves already.
Burberry Spring/ Summer 2018 RTW Collection
While many said “hello” to new runway formulas, others had to wave goodbye to their fashion houses. That is what happened to Burberry, whose now-former creative director took LFW by storm with the Burberry spring/ summer 2018 collection everyone is talking about.
After 17 long and successful years at Burberry, fashion designer Christopher Bailey treated us to a touching Burberry collection that was all about the “past, present, and future” of Burberry and thus of Bailey himself, too, as he set us on a heartfelt journey made of Burberry’s legacy, autobiographical references, and Eighties/ Nineties-inspired subcultural leitmotifs that are destined to become iconic.
Whoever browsed through Internet these days surely found pictures of Burberry’s new LGBTQ-inspired tartan all over the place, as well as the rainbow logos and striped sweaters. As if his departure wasn’t emotional enough for many, Bailey decided to celebrate and protect love and hope in all its forms with his last Burberry collection, reminding us that there’s always a rainbow after the storm.
Speaking of emotions, Cristopher Bailey bowed for the last time at a Burberry’s runway show when the final soundtrack, “Don’t Leave Me This Way,” reached the line “set me free.”
Now the only reasonable question is: are we ready to set him free?
Mary Katrantzou Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
Is it possible to combine Victorian decorative styles with Bauhaus-inspired structures and figures? Well, of course, it is! LFW is the place where the magic happens, and we all know Mary Katrantzou is a sort of magical fairy who makes (fashion, at least) things possible.
For her latest Mary Katrantzou fall 2018 collection, the designer worked on the “the synergy between looking at form and at the decorative arts, and how these come together from Victorian times through Bauhaus”. To make it possible, she brought this synergy into the “silhouettes, techniques, the draping and the trompe l’oeil work” that she had done in the past, as she explained backstage, creating a harmonious 38-piece collection that surely left the audience speechless.
Needless to say, the collection is as utilitarian as haute couture-esque, as it juxtaposes structured shoulders, roomy bomber jackets, and geometrically minimalist patterns with flowy lines, satin fabrics, and luxuriously printed embellishments.
Although this latest Mary Katrantzou fall 2018 collection might not satisfy everybody’s tastes, it does elevate the peplum blouse to its maximum expression, and we are sure will help many other designers extend their sources of inspiration.
Photos via Vogue