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We are in the middle of MFW and we barely can keep track of the astounding amount of fashion inspirations, iconic moments, and even more legendary accessory items many designers are treating us to. As it often happens, MFW is the hotbed for the coolest fall seasonal trends, and this Milan Fashion Week fall 2018 season is even more so.
And we could easily prove it with the fall 2018 runway collections of Gucci, No 21, and Alberta Ferretti. Get ready for a magic array of the Eighties revisits, layered hits, and, well, some dragons, too!
Gucci Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
Ok, we could declare hands down Gucci’s fall 2018 runway show as the most imposing of the season already, as it overwhelmed MFW with dragons, severed heads, third eyes, and of course iconic garments that are on everyone’s lips.
Alessandro Michele, father of the dragons, proved (once again!) to master the art of transposing his fashion visions to the runway setting and vice versa, creating an all-around show that is entertaining, indeed. In this particular case, he artistically transmuted Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein-inspired scenario to fashion, opting for luxuriously anti-fashion aesthetics that, however, are distinctively opposed to those of fashion houses such as Vetements and Balenciaga.
Alessandro Michele’s Gucci fall 2018 plays, in fact, with alternative aesthetics that brought balaclavas (which were more intricate than Calvin Klein’s), heavily layered outfits, laced and see-through embellishments, ruched dresses, and peplum jackets onstage, filtering everything through Donna Haraway’s 1984 “A Cyborg Manifesto: Science, Technology, and Socialist-Feminism in the Late Twentieth Century” empowering notes for sure.
As perfectly summed up on Gucci’s Instagram account, “the concept reflects the work of a designer—the act of cutting, splicing and reconstructing materials and fabrics to create a new personality and identity with them. The materials used are typical of an operating room and the environment around it: PVC on the walls and floors, fire doors with panic-bars, LED lamps, and plastic chairs like those in a waiting room.”
Above all, however, Gucci’s mastermind aimed at declaring fashion’s new philosophy, whose interconnections are profoundly interspersed with transhumanism. “We are the Dr. Frankenstein of our lives,” he explained backstage, “I wanted to represent the lab I have in my head. It’s physical work, like a surgeon’s.”
Last but not least, although the Gucci fall 2018 collection’s major theme appears to be posthumanism and a sort of less scary dystopia, Alessandro Michele completed each outfit with references from the South American indigenous cultures, as well as medieval times and the Eighties, probably to keep us in touch with the reality. Who knows!
Alberta Ferretti Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
If Alessandro Michele is the father of the dragon, we must appoint Alberta Ferretti as the mother of iconic sweaters. The Italian designer has collected a plethora of it-item successes seen all over the Internet, such as the signature sweaters that keep track of the days of the week.
For her Alberta Ferretti fall 2018 collection, showcased at MFW yesterday afternoon, Alberta Ferretti brought a less multi-colored collection on stage (except for a gorgeous electric blue), getting rid of her emblazoned sweaters in favor of monochrome, bell-sleeved ones (which will surely fly off the shelves, too). The entire collection was inspired by one of the industry’s most glamorous era, i.e. the Eighties, filtered through a more Milanese-flavored lens.
Like Alessandro Michele, Alberta Ferretti wanted to acknowledge our society’s changes through fashion, celebrating the industry’s forward-thinking and visionary approach (even when a collection’s main references come from the past).
“Women today have changed, and fashion needs to speak in a different way. It shouldn’t be so correct, it should show personality,” she declared backstage, and we couldn’t agree more.
No. 21 Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
Even though we almost automatically link NYFW’s fashion hints to LFW’s and vice-versa, things are changing (as Alessandro Michele and Alberta Ferretti pointed out, too). That’s why more and more creative directors are bringing American inspirations to MFW as well.
Besides Alessandro Michele, who embellished some jackets with “NY” motifs, Alessandro Dell’Acqua decided to flood his No. 21 fall 2018 runway show with some all-American references, specifically focusing on two single patterns.
“I love the image of the majorette,” the designer explained backstage. “But in the melancholic way — it’s not very funny.”
So, what do you do when your collection’s main sources of inspiration are the lovely and loud majorettes along with a good dose of melancholia? Of course, the answer is in the glitter used aplenty, military jackets, berets, and plaids.
Slightly androgynous, the No. 21 fall 2018 collection presented extremely interesting proposals accessory-wise, with the creeper shoes being exquisitely covetable.
Also, if you are looking for other mustard/ ochre items to treat yourself to, Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s new No. 21 line-up is the way to go!
Photos via Vogue