Paris Fashion Week fall 2018 is almost drawing to a close, but its fall 2018 trends are still living and prospering. With the fall 2018 ready-to-wear collections of Balmain, Nina Ricci, and Altuzarra, PFW reached one of its most eclectic peaks, leaving us with a plethora of proposals to play with. Fashions aside, such runway shows left us with a question and a wild card that is still illegible, and we hope will get clearer sooner than the next PFW season begins!
Balmain Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
Who’s ready for a sci-fi collection filtered through Olivier Rousteing’s opulent lens? For his Balmain fall 2018 collection, the French designer (slightly) bucked the trend with a 90-piece lineup that was mainly inspired by the Nineties and a glamorously glitzy futuristic scenario.
Not that there was any shortage of sci-fi and Nineties inspirations at PFW or any other Fashion Week, but it is with Balmain’s fall 2018 staples that we finally (I say finally because as a sci-fi lover I am unapologetically biased) got to experience a full otherworldly collection. Roustenig’s visions for the autumnal season are also quite different from the Matrix-approved aesthetics many fashionistas are flawlessly sporting these days.
Variegated, versatile, and wearable (even its silver foil detailing, PVC, and holographic items could be tactically balanced with more standard garments), Balmain’s fall 2018 collection was exquisitely balanced and elegant in each and every structure, reaching its peak with the liquid-look organza and crystal meshes that looked like a fashion transmutation of the sky, indeed (and that was apparently Rousteing’s aim, too).
Though, the most interesting part of this latest Balmain fall 2018 collection is that even his most “electrical” proposals looked more mature and refined, as the designer decided to take a moment to focus on quietness and harmony. As it turned out, that was the case.
“Today, when you hear the name Balmain in songs when you see the craziness around the collaborations I’ve done, I feel like the Balmain story now talks to the new generation,” Rousteing told WWD. “A lot of things have happened, but with this [collection], I feel more confident and I feel more peaceful with myself.”
Once again Rousteing proved to be able to turn his feelings into fashion, and that, regardless of one’s aesthetic or opinion on the actual results, is no small feat.
Nina Ricci Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
Although there’s still confusion regarding Guillaume Henry’s possible departure from Nina Ricci, his latest Nina Ricci fall 2018 collection was presented a few days ago at PFW leaving almost everyone in awe.
As Vogue US and many other fashion critics pointed out, however, Nina Ricci’s visions for the autumnal season were far away from the label’s classic aesthetics, which could be synthetized with a clear-cut “feminine” accent.
According to Henry’s lens, in fact, next fall 2018 will be all about tailored figures, uniform-like ensembles, and tactic haute couture-inspired staples that could upgrade any outfit. From long military coats to lingerie looks, and veiled tricorn hats, everything from Nina Ricci’s fall 2018 lineup was about a casual rigor that would make anyone instantly feel like a million bucks.
More than anything, Henry’s passion and care for the details was perceivable in this latest collection of his, which could mean either that he is getting us ready for a new Nina Ricci era, in which tailoring exceeds the label’s signature code, or that his time at the label has come to an end. According to him, this Nina Ricci fall 2018 collection was “a love letter for everything I do, deeply, with passion, with truth. Even if its clothes, I really wanted to emphasize the idea I have of a beautiful woman, that has nothing to do with fashion, really.” So, things are still cryptic.
Altuzarra Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
Joseph Altuzarra wanted to make clothes “that my friends and women I know want to wear.” And we all know that, whenever a creative director states something like that, either great utilitarian things are to be expected or ultra-nostalgic ones.
For his Altuzarra fall 2018 collection, presented a few days ago at PFW, the designer managed to combine both aspects delivering an astounding 51-piece collection with separates anyone could wear on a daily basis and, at the same time, use them to stand out from the crowd, indeed.
Although Altuzarra’s fall 2018 color palette is quite monochrome and dark-toned, the collection features few pops of red that are definitely eye-catching and pleasingly revitalizing. As with the color palette, the aesthetics are quite similar yet with a few touches of unconventionality here and there.
With suits dominating the scene, velvet dresses, knit sweaters, and leather skirts, we could easily say this Altuzarra fall 2018 collection got us covered for fall!
Photos via Vogue