PFW just became Paris Futuristic Week thanks to the fall 2018 ready-to-wear collections of Givenchy, Balenciaga, and Valentino, which, above all, educated us on the various ways in which futurism operates. Although we usually perceive it as a fashion aesthetic mostly confined to geometric shoulders and metallic patterns, futurism is an actual philosophy that permeates the visionary creative directors’ minds, and which was heartedly intertwined with all off the newest fashions by Givenchy, Balenciaga, and Valentino, even when no conventionally futuristic item was presented on stage.
Get ready for three of PFW’s most interesting fall 2018 runway shows!
Givenchy Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
Although less imposing than the other Fashion Weeks, the Eighties-inspired leitmotifs were still present at Paris Fashion Week. Among the various runway shows, Givenchy’s was probably the one that played with this decade the most.
Inspired by films such as “The Hunger”, and “B-Movie: Lust & Sound in West Berlin,” Givenchy’s fall 2018 collection introduced us to a world from the “early Eighties New Wave, before the wall came down and through that period when the wall came down,” as explained by Givenchy’s new creative director Clare Waight Keller, surprising us with a cultural cross that we yet had to experience with Givenchy.
Berlin’s club scene, which was and still is filled with inspirations of all sorts, acted as the perfect scenario for visionary Clare Waight Keller, whose standard feminine figures perfectly landed on a new out-of-the-box moodboard.
Strong, structured, mostly-dark toned, and unapologetically evocative, the Givenchy fall 2018 collection treated us to a dream array of staples and it-items to combine with one another, and which will surely help the Eighties craze get a good dose of further staples to invest in (I mean, look at those coats and tuxedos!).
The thing is, would you ever wear any of Givenchy’s fall 2018 pieces at a night out in Berlin? As for me, absolutely!
Balenciaga Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
Trendsetter Demna Gvasalia was back at PFW with a Balenciaga fall 2018 collection that, above all, reconfirmed his strong artisanal skills and ideas on fashion as a whole.
“After two years at Balenciaga,” Gvasalia explained to Vogue backstage “I wanted to take all the codes of the house and filter them so they can be one aesthetic and one ethic. […] I had kind of, we can say, a creative revelation in October. I realized exactly what I wanted to show today.”
As a result, his Balenciaga fall 2018 collection was indeed Cristóbal Balenciaga-inspired, yet only from a general aesthetic point of view. To let the innovative leitmotif prevail over the ‘copycat’ one, he even brought technology onstage by creating both Balenciaga’s women and menswear pieces (it was a co-ed runway show) with an innovative computer-based molding process, wherein the final fabrics were bonded together to a lightweight foam.
Thus, as a consequence, Balenciaga’s fall 2018 garments were genderlessly designed to fit anyone, although at times displayed either more conventional feminine or masculine structures.
Sharp in their lines, opulent in the colors and prints, and subtly futuristic in the streetwear attitude, the Balenciaga fall 2018 collection’s pieces were a true revelation that we are sure, will change the way many designers look at their own fashion creative process.
Valentino Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
Futurism is often synonymous with apocalyptic scenes, and that is why (understandably) many people are afraid of it. Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli just brought us messages of love and futuristic positivity with the Valentino fall 2018 collection that palpably was all about harmony and quietness.
“Romanticism,” Piccioli prophetically and quite cryptically said backstage while explaining his collection’s main theme. “It’s a strength today if you’re able to be assertive but not aggressive.”
His Valentino fall 2018 collection was romantic, indeed.
Filled with well-balanced and “pure” feminine items, the collection was all about vertical, clean structures and long silhouettes, with both long dresses and coats dominating the scene. Fragile yet strong, the lineup also created intriguing contrasts with the blush tones and the rich textures, adding an extra dose of quiet dynamicity with the voluptuous hoods and the vaguely Princess Leia-inspired detailing.
Blooming flowers completed most of the evening gowns, highlighting Piccioli’s classic yet revolutionary (especially during these times) idea of romanticism.
Being romantic as a way of living life is a mantra we’d love to spread everywhere in the world, and we are glad Piccioli began spreading it within the fashion industry.
Photos via Vogue