Expectations for ready-to-wear collections presented in Paris are supposed to be met for veteran designers and those new to the scene as well. People may like to pretend that hard and fast rules apply in Paris, but it is more an expectation of quality and design, especially in design because of what appeals to Paris. With Paris as the backdrop, the considerations are more towards meeting the reputation of one of the fashion capitals of the world.
How designers choose to anticipate and respond to those expectations is individually shown, but everyone learns quickly what will excel in Paris and what will not, just like Altuzarra and Sonia Rykiel that unveiled their spring 2018 collections on the fifth day of Paris Fashion Week spring 2018.
Altuzarra Spring/ Summer 2018 RTW Collection
Altuzarra showed in Paris under a lot of heavy expectations. His show was geared more towards Paris chic than glamour, and he did not disappoint.
Joseph Altuzarra is a native who decided to show his collection at home. He showed his collection, saying; “I didn’t want to suddenly do a super French show inspired by France,” though the Altuzarra spring 2018 collection was judged as being what was expected of a Parisian.
The Altuzarra spring/ summer 2018 collection overall clearly had his narrative locked down. Altuzarra shows slim fitting, linear style ensembles with more sensuous tailoring and just the right amount of movement, but not flow. Silhouette-enhancing belting and a lot pops of eye-catching details were apparent in the collection that featured a lot of textiles reminiscent of homespun qualities.
The homespun attribution of the looks was directly correlated to his inspiration. According to Altuzarra, Princess Mononoke, an anime movie, and Charles Freger’s photographs of pagan rituals titled “Wilder Mann” were the inspirations for the spring 2018 ready-to-wear collection.
Sonia Rykiel Spring/ Summer 2018 RTW Collection
Julie de Libran designed the Sonia Rykiel spring 2018 collection based on the qualities of the oyster. The collection first and foremost was extremely wearable and featured a great number of looks.
Many don’t really pay attention to the details in the things around them, and oysters have clearly been overlooked. The luminous and pearlescent nacre of the oyster showed in evening dresses made of charmeuse.
The pearl, one of the few pieces no one will forget was the primary embellishment of the Sonia Rykiel spring 2018 collection, which was beautiful and just made a lot of sense. Even the space where the collection was shown, the École des Beaux-Arts, which is a huge space, could be considered to echo the vastness of everything surrounding the oyster.
An oversized silk smock featured a print meant to recall the rougher exterior of the oyster, and the sweater dresses trimmed in pearls caught a lot of attention. The attention to detail and the thoroughness of Libran’s translation were amazing. Not only did she make a collection out of a mollusk, but also she did so with a flair that could not have been expected from such an inspiration, let alone by those who would question why.
The choice to use something considered humble that also works as food for many and provides an incredible jewelry element for fashion was brilliant, and the resulting Sonia Rykiel spring 2018 ready-to-wear collection was brilliant as well.
Photos via Vogue