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Paris Fashion Week spring 2018 may be slowly drawing to a close, but that doesn’t mean it is running out of inspiration! Today, Thursday, September 28th, was a particularly prolific and interesting day at PFW, as we finally got to see Chloe’s new creative director’s take on the fashion house, Dossena’s surprising Dancing Queen approach to the spring 2018 season, and Rousteing’s classic visions on Balmain.
No wonder, today’s PFW events were all full of surprises, and the latest spring 2018 collections of Chloe, Paco Rabanne, and Balmain all emphasized this unexpected spirit.
Chloe Spring/ Summer 2018 RTW Collection
While Chloe’s sister line See by Chloe unveiled its new spring 2018 collection at NYFW, the fashion house’s main line Chloe got its chance to shine today at PFW, where it traditionally takes place season after season. As for this specific Chloe spring 2018 collection, we must start by saying that it marked one of Chloe’s most pivotal moments in history, as it was Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s first line-up for the house.
Appointed as Chloe’s creative director earlier this year, in March, Ramsay-Levi has big shoes to fill, as well as all eyes are on her for sure. She succeeded Clare Waight Keller, namely one of the most acclaimed fashion designers ever.
Stimulated by Chloe’s astounding legacy, Natacha Ramsay-Levi decided to celebrate both the fashion house and its numerous former creative directors, from Lagerfeld to Keller, with ad hoc ensembles that could easily remind us of them, while at the same time treating us to something new.
Crisp cotton materials, soft silhouettes, empowering accents, and cowgirl-approved motifs were thus the centre of attention throughout the Chloe spring/ summer 2018 collection, taking us on a highly appreciated (and never boring) trip down memory lane. If that’s what Levi’s Chloe will look like from now on, we are much obliged!
Paco Rabanne Spring/ Summer 2018 RTW Collection
Paco Rabanne’s creative director Julien Dossena presented his spring 2018 collection at Grand Palais earlier this afternoon, leaving those who were attending the show in awe. Those who love following Paco Rabanne’s ventures throughout the Fashion Weeks are used to Dossena’s studious, curious, and disciplined approach to fashion, which often leads him to balanced leitmotifs that harmoniously combine modernity with Paco Rabanne’s timeless legacy.
For his Paco Rabanne spring 2018 collection, however, Julien Dossena mesmerized us with one-of-a-kind experiments that could be described as what a club kid from the Eighties would wear in the late Nineties. To put it in Julien Dossena’s words, he wanted “to make clothes that are fun and light, for enjoyment and going out.”
As if things weren’t tricky enough, Dossena arose our curiosity finding new ways to work on jersey, which we bet will find their way into many other designers’ studios in the months to come.
“I was searching for a modern way to work on jersey,” he explained, “so I made it openable, punctuated by metal rivets that are also push-studs… but it’s really coming from all those jersey dresses Grace Jones would wear, or Michelle Pfeiffer.”
So as a result, we get a plethora of metallic fabrics, asymmetrical cuts, psychedelic patterns, and even ultra-elegant pantsuits, the plunging V-necklines of which still confirm Dossena’s official new Paco Rabanne era, and we are utterly excited about.
Balmain Spring/ Summer 2018 RTW Collection
Creative director Olivier Rousteing just redefined Balmain’s basics and core aesthetics at PFW earlier this afternoon, as his Balmain spring 2018 collection just took us back down memory lane (it was a nostalgic day, indeed), where Balmain’s legacy and unforgettable fashion milestones coexist.
First and foremost, as usual, Rousteing’s runway show was filled with his A-list crew of runway supermodels that inevitably helped the collection become even more imposing as a whole, and which included, among others, models of the moment Bianca Balti, Andreea Diaconu, Joan Smalls, Elsa Hosk, and Magdalena Frackowiak.
Secondly, this Balmain spring 2018 collection helped logo prints, ultra-long zips, tight figures, and overall strong early ‘00s-inspired aesthetics come back in style, which is something other designers at NYFW spring 2018 considered doing as well.
Last but not least, he confirmed that volumes and layers are one of Balmain’s absolute must-have signature details, as along with the clingy garments, he let voluminous skirts, layered gowns, and structured shoulders play an important role throughout the entire collection, too.
Like Levi and Dossena, Rousteing just proved past legacies will always find their dynamic way through modernity without boring us stiff, and that’s a breath of fresh air for sure, considering how negatively some of the latest PFW collections got reviewed and perceived so far.
Photos via Vogue