Most of yesterday’s collections at Paris Fashion Week spring 2018 marked pivotal moments in the industry, proving that ready-to-wear is not dead, indeed. Among them, the spring 2018 ready-to-wear collections of Givenchy, Balenciaga, and Celine were surely the most remarkable, as they featured acclaimed debuts (to be intended as both new beginnings and first appearances) we won’t forget that soon for sure.
After lots of criticism and accusations regarding this PFW spring 2018 edition being entertaining but rather boring at the same time, some of the creative directors of the moment abruptly made many change their minds, providing us with fashion inspiration aplenty for the following warmer months.
Givenchy Spring/ Summer 2018 RTW Collection
After leaving Choe in Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s good hands, fashion designer Clare Waight Keller headed to Givenchy’s headquarters, debuting her newest Givenchy spring 2018 collection on October 1st at PFW. It was probably one of the most anticipated debuts of PFW spring 2018, as now Givenchy’s new creative director Waight Keller shares distinctive visions on fashion compared to those of former creative mind Riccardo Tisci.
Tisci undeniably infused Givenchy with clear high-street vibes, modernizing the Givenchy aesthetics for a new generation of customers that were extremely sad about his departure.
Equally modern yet in a more radiant, feminine way, Clare Waight Keller is renowned for her fluid silhouettes and hippy looks, which could ultimately mark Givenchy’s new fashion era. Whether Givenchy is about to change its aesthetics or not is not to be revealed too soon, as Keller’s debut with the French fashion house was more about celebrating Givenchy’s founder Hubert de Givenchy than anything else.
While looking for valid sources of inspiration, Keller immersed herself in Givenchy’s archives, focusing on Hubert de Givenchy’s dynamic sketches, couture-esque designs, and layered patterns. Prophetically entitled “Transformation Seduction,” Keller’s Givenchy spring 2018 collection overwhelmed PFW with an extremely independent, women-centred line-up, the accents of sensuality and femininity being deeply intertwined with one another.
“Everything felt to me like it came from the shoulder,” declared Keller backstage when asked about her researches and the collection.
Balenciaga Spring/ Summer 2018 RTW Collection
Here we are with this PFW’s most talked about runway show, i.e. the Balenciaga spring/ summer 2018 collection. Filled with one-of-a-kind designs and even quirkier it-items, this collection is on everyone’s lips for all the right reasons, and will probably keep on being everyone’s favorite fashion topic for many more months to come, too. And if you were wondering who designed the exaggerated Crocs everyone is currently sharing on the various social media channels, well, here’s the answer!
For this Balenciaga spring 2018 collection, Balenciaga’s creative director Demna Gvasalia decided to focus less on the fashion house’s legacy and more on his own visions on fashion, dipping each one of his proposals into his signature anti-fashion receipt. Exaggerated Crocs, ultra-long and tight boots, oversized silhouettes, and deconstructed figures were thus everywhere to be seen at the Balenciaga spring 2018 runway show, officially marking Balenciaga’s actual new era.
“I wanted it to be more Demna, less Cristóbal this time,” Gvasalia explained to Vogue backstage. “After the past few seasons, I could feel myself getting restrained by homages.”
‘Demna’ is thus “something more vicious. Gothic, in a way. Fashion is a reflection of the way we live. I wanted this feeling [that] something dangerous is going to happen.”
Practically speaking, this Demna-approved Balenciaga collection brought one-of-a-kind, yet rather wearable proposals on stage, among which the trench coats attached to denim jackets, the lingerie slips attached to turtlenecks, and the fluid chiffon dresses will surely be the ones that fly off the shelves the soonest.
Celine Spring/ Summer 2018 RTW Collection
Influenced by optimism and nature, Phoebe Philo’s new Celine spring 2018 collection was nothing but a (literal) breath of fresh air for those who were attending the show during PFW, and surely provided us with something equally elegant and comfortable to look forward to for the upcoming spring.
“I wanted to be optimistic. It was just this sense of joy and life force. It felt like a celebration. I thought, if there’s anything to say at the moment, let it be with love and let it be joyful,” Celine’s creative director Phoebe Philo explained to Vogue backstage, injecting a highly appreciated and needed dose of optimism in us, fashion enthusiasts.
Whether one might fancy Philo’s new proposals or not, their jocose, free-spirited aesthetics and vibes are undeniably contagious, especially when it comes to the many cape coats, ponchos, and fluidly structured gowns. To emphasize her lust for comfort and freedom, Philo even opted for urban-revisited versions of the long fringes, here used to embellish everything from the gowns to the skirts.
Finally, to exude Celine spring 2018 collection’s ultimate sense of joie de vivre, Philo drew inspiration from the Eighties, refining the entire line-up with covetable vintage accents we cannot help but love.
“So I started looking at the designers of the early ’80s, pre-AIDS. I can almost not imagine what it felt like, to have that joyousness and freedom,” she declared.
Photos via Vogue