Paris Fashion Week spring 2019 brought the trio of favorites to imprint on the memories of the fashion lover. Balenciaga, Valentino, and Givenchy all took turns enrapturing their audience with different looks and varying levels of intensity. While Valentino may have chosen to completely snatch at the attentions of everyone collectively, Balenciaga preferred to immerse the audience in a fully realized experience that transported them elsewhere.
Givenchy showed an excellent wearable show, built around an imagined adventurous that so many women aspire to be. The shows were amazing, and a breakdown of how can be found below.
Balenciaga Spring/ Summer 2019 RTW Collection
“I always had this idea of a video tunnel, like being inside someone’s digital mind,” Demna Gvasalia told Vogue when speaking of the project put together with digital artist Jon Rafman. The coordinated and the immersive experience mesmerized the audience of the Balenciaga spring 2019 ready-to-wear runway show.
“Fashion shows are for transporting people, otherwise there’s no point. It was like working on a movie, getting people into another reality, so it stays as a memory.” If transporting people into another reality was the mission, Balenciaga more than succeeded.
“Neo-tailoring,” a term Gvasalia used, created clothes that are admittedly a bit difficult to describe. Gvasalia himself explained that allowed the jacket to become a shirt as it flowed stylistically to the pants. To directly quote him, he explained that some of the looks featuring neo-tailoring were the result of a personal challenge.
“We challenged ourselves to make tailoring for today’s generation. How can they wear a suit—which they never do? It’s like a jogging suit, but it looks super-elegant in shape. There’s no obligation to wear a shirt and tie, because the jacket has become the shirt. Somehow, this is what I want to wear myself,” he laughed.
The emphasis on new silhouettes and focusing on the future and the clothes were obvious. The Balenciaga spring 2019 collection was a lot to take in. The audience needed a few minutes to come back to themselves, remaining in their seats for several minutes rather than standing and exiting post show.
Logo mania also spread itself across this runway, the Balenciaga logo appearing here and there throughout. Gvasalia is falling in love with fashion again, and we are definitely here for the ride.
Valentino Spring/ Summer 2019 RTW Collection
It seems that Valentino’s spring 2019 ready-to-wear collection was designed to speak on a more intrinsic level to the individual than the masses. This seems like a funny thing to say about a 63-piece collection, except the sumptuous amount of options to choose from will hold a different appeal to everyone. This was by design, thanks to the brilliance and inspiration of Piccioli who was inspired by artistic people living their true selves.
Designer Pierpaolo Piccioli explained to Vogue: “I was thinking of paradises, about artists’ colonies of the past. There were reasons why artistic people went off to places like that – so they could live their identities. Today, everyone is talking about escapism. But I don’t believe in that – l think everyone should just live their identities in the city, or wherever they are.”
There was nothing tamed or hidden about the Valentino spring 2019 collection. Drama resided in some of the looks from a cape-topped jersey dress, and a billowing off-the-shoulder dress in black cotton to a personal favorite – a black slim-line tuxedo with a burst of ruffles in the front.
Once the color hit the runway in Valentino red, they were soon followed by patterns bursting with color and a variety of shapes. Even the most demure pieces, many of which were in rich black fabric, held such a level of ethereal chicness that they hardly seemed real. Capes and dramatic, wind-catching attire were very present and unmissable, spread out throughout the collection.
Asking oneself “How could I incorporate this?” seems a mute point – it was easier to pick from the designs the one that spoke to you most. The look was you, is you, and you will have somewhere to wear this.
Givenchy Spring/ Summer 2019 RTW Collection
Pops of bright yellow did exist throughout the Givenchy spring 2019 ready-to-wear collection, which mostly appeared to be set on fashionably existing more than stirring the pot. This is incredible considering the backstory of Clare Waight Keller’s muse for Givenchy.
The inspiration was a beautifully androgynous woman who captivated through her talent and adventures. She was a photographer, traveler and a Swiss writer. This character led the charge in Keller’s mind to create the collision of dress codes for menswear and womenswear.
Though each has their own flags that are present throughout the Givenchy spring 2019 collection to differentiate, the margins were much closer than before, even overlapping in several instances. The androgynous look was carried by the models in appearance without the addition of the clothes, but the clothes themselves, including leather and tuxedo jackets, the styling of the tucked ends and more, really spoke to the time of Keller’s dauntless character.
It wasn’t a “tomboy” affair where one might consider the jump to be from one end to the other, but an intrinsic melding of features and options that led to layered prints that also included florals, long hanging leather belts and slim lines still managing nipped waists.
There were three-dimensional fan pleating to be in awe of, while deep, open necklines, cut-out tops and exposed shoulders took time to add a bit of pizzazz and allure to the collection.
Photos via Vogue