Milan Fashion Week fall 2018 just showed us what it means to explore glamorized comfort and techno-primitivism, which we are sure are we will hear about in the upcoming years, too. Thanks to the fall 2018 runway shows of Missoni, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, and Marni, MFW just turned into a philosophic place where fashion meets sociology and innovation, confirming once again that the industry is truly able to shape the society (and vice versa).
Get ready for tons of inspiration, a significant lack of animal prints (I know, that sounds amazing given how “wild” NYFW, LFW, and MFW turned out to be), and some bold moves that no one probably expected!
Missoni Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
MFW still proves to be connected to NYFW with Missoni’s fall 2018 collection, the major sources of inspiration of which are to be found in New York’s carefree and glamorous late Seventies/ early Eighties, namely right before the Big Apple was hit by the AIDS epidemy and the threatening financial crisis. According to Missoni’s creative director Angela Missoni, that was a moment of “joy, a moment of joyful positivity, an eclectic moment,” which exquisitely showed off in each and every ensemble of this latest line-up of hers.
New York Urban-approved notes aside, which were very palpable especially within the men’s collection and the women’s tweeds (it was a co-ed runway show), this Missoni fall 2018 collection portrayed two other major themes on stage. The first one was the incredible hippie, Woodstock-flared appeal the overall collection was drenched in. Long skirts, exaggerated scarves, headbands, and bell-bottom trousers were distinguishably dominating the scene, creating an appealing contrast with Missoni’s standard patterns, and more elegantly imposing aesthetics.
Secondly, Missoni’s fall 2018 collection marked the fashion house’s 65th anniversary, which, of course, Angela Missoni wanted to celebrate. For this reason, the line-up was a well-balanced mix of innovation and legacy, filled with little details, such as stripes and animal prints, that will surely make many Missoni’s aficionados nostalgically teary. Well, at least that was the case for us!
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
The Eighties just struck again with Lorenzo Serafini’s Philosophy fall 2018 collection, the luxurious glamour of which was filtered through an even more extravagant American lens.
“It’s my Italian vision of the American dream. It’s the glamorization of comfort,” explained Serafini backstage, adding that, this time around, he wanted to leave politics aside and just focus on fashion’s carefree side. “I think that it’s really an instrument to give joy and lightness to a sad world” (which is sort of a political statement anyway).
Politics, glamour, and lightheartedness aside, this latest Philosophy fall 2018 collection of his was really a joyful mix of flowy prairie dresses, polka dots, fur, leather trousers, structured shoulders, and shiny accents, which inevitably brought everything Eighties and pretty on stage.
With the Eighties actually being an extremely diverse period in terms of styles, fashions, and subcultures, looking at an equally diverse fall 2018 collection was definitely neat and refreshing, especially because it didn’t include any animal prints like the other Eighties-inspired runway shows that we got to see this far (not that there’s anything wrong with leopard prints, it is just that those who don’t like them but love the Eighties glamour are now probably happy about the animal-prints-free options available).
Confident and energetic, many will fall for Serafini’s fall 2018 woman (pun not intended).
Marni Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
Here we are with one of the most anticipated fall 2018 runway collections of these past 48 hours. Marni’s (now not so) new creative director Francesco Risso translated our human nature’s contrasting love for both technology and what he referred to as “primitivism” to deliver the 42-piece Marni fall 2018 collection that looked as outdoorsy as urban.
For his latest efforts, he deeply sought to explore “the contrast between our irresistible love for innovation and technology and, on the other side, those movements of the soul”, i.e. “the universal magnetism that attracts opposites,” i.e. the aforementioned “techno primitivism.”
If that sounded quite complicated, wait and see Mani’s fall 2018 pieces.
Transmuted to fashion, this intriguing and intricate leitmotif of his brought vinyl skirts and parkas, toxic green belted coats, heavily layered and neon ensembles, asymmetrical dresses, and cozy turtlenecks on stage, often displaying his yin and yang mood board with patchworks of completely different prints sewed onto the same garment.
As if things don’t sound risky enough, he made some ensembles of recycled fabrics, proving once again high fashion should not be afraid of ecology, changes, and bold style moves. Especially bold moves!
Photos via Vogue