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Milan Fashion Week fall 2018 is almost done at this point but is still full of interesting fashions to discuss and analyze. This time around, we focused on three completely different fall 2018 collections, namely the ones by Prada, Etro, and Roberto Cavalli, as they all showcased a strong penchant for unpredicted leitmotifs, yet transmuting, at the same time, them to uncannily unusual aesthetics.
Prada, for example, became tried hand at rebellious notes, Etro went for a postmodern past (which, compared to LFW’s retrofuturism, is an interesting new point of view to explore), and Cavalli embraced an intriguing old identity that will certainly prosper and evolve from now on. In a nutshell, MFW is always full of surprises. And we love it!
Prada Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
Although it is usually at NYFW and LFW that we expect things to get political, that doesn’t mean MFW can’t be a little bit of a rebel, too.
For her Prada fall 2018 collection, creative director Miuccia Prada brought the industrial revolution on stage, filtered through the capable lens of a crafty fashion designer, whose appeal for the elegant figures has always been notable.
Prada’s fall 2018 industrial revolution is not, predictably, like Charles Dickens’ one. During the runway show, Miuccia Prada debuted a dream array of 48 pieces predominantly dipped in neon colors, the structures of which could be easily described as sci-fi accents harmoniously mixed up with Eighties glamour (the tartan patterns are not going away).
Layered ensembles, bucket hats (those are not going away either, sorry not sorry?), tweeds and acid-colored parkas were at the core of this Prada fall 2018 collection and surely took cold and gloomy Milan by surprise.
There’s one thing for sure – we can now pair Calvin Klein’s balaclavas with Prada’s galoshes. Speaking of utilitarian fashion!
Etro Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
What happens when you combine architectural aesthetics with Little House on the Prairie references? Apparently, Etro’s fall 2018 collection! Presented Friday afternoon at MFW, Etro’s new takes on the fall season are equally nostalgic and postmodernist, as creative director Veronica Etro had a clear vision in mind when building the collection’s mood board and subsequent attitude.
“[It is] as if Ettore Sottsass and Laura Ingalls were chatting together and making this new synthesis of handmade earthiness and rigorous postmodernism,” poetically declared Etro backstage, perfectly capturing the line-up’s essence.
With its earthy-toned color palette, layered structures, exquisite patterns, and flowy lines that blissfully remind us of the prairie dresses, this Etro fall 2018 collection toys a lot with the cowgirl and native side of fashion, never missing a chance to accentuate its elegant legacy, and urban (jungle) appeal.
Compared to the many Eighties-inspired, sci-fi-flavored, and heavily utilitarian collections we have seen so far, Etro’s one-of-a-kind fall 2018 collection is unforgettable and striking, for sure.
Roberto Cavalli Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
As Roberto Cavalli’s fall 2018 collection was approaching later last afternoon, many were surely left wondering: will Paul Surridge be able to save Roberto Cavalli’s leopard prints?
Given how many designers revived the animal patterns for this NYFW, LFW, and MFW, times are surely propitious.
Animal prints aside, which are probably safe and sound this time around, the real question is, will Roberto Cavalli resuscitate as the Italian label whose main goal was that of portraying strong women even during hard times? According to Surridge himself, the answer is yes (well, at least that’s his goal for sure).
“I like the idea of a powerful seductress,” Surridge exclusively told the Guardian before the show. “Cavalli is an alpha woman and an alpha man, but together they don’t cancel each other out, they complement each other.”
Translated to fashion, his Roberto Cavalli fall 2018 runway show brought leopard prints aplenty, an intense and dark-toned color palette, magical ombre refinements, and a good dose of bohemian-rock vibes that are very dear to Roberto Cavalli’s legacy (and to those who love it).
Although focusing on Cavalli’s signature aesthetics, Surridge flawlessly took his leading role renovating Cavalli’s structures here and there, playing with urban-chic side-slit coats, tassels, and low-waisted silhouettes.
Above all, he managed to overwhelm MFW with something fun and carefree, which is no small feat. “Cavalli was always frisky and I think that we’re ready for a bit more fun in fashion,” he concluded. And we are much obliged.
Photos via Vogue