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Femininity and empowerment are in the air at Paris Fashion Week fall 2018, although inflected in extremely different ways. The fall 2018 runway collections of Dior, Saint Laurent, and Lacoste are equally inspiring and empowering (and also powerful), studded with it-items and utilitarian staples that, in their complete diversity, want us to battle everything, from the environment to a misogynist society.
More than that, they are not just providing us with killer pieces to overcome any kind of difficulty, but also they are encouraging us with positive notes that, above all, are very much appreciated during these difficult years. Get ready for the fashion masterpieces from Dior, Saint Laurent, and Lacoste!
Dior Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
Are you ready for what might end up being not only PFW’s but also the entire fall 2018 fashion season’s most debated runway show ever? Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior fall 2018 collection has already been dubbed as either “revolutionary” or “boring” by many, with (apparently) any possibility of in-between criticism. Either you love it, or you hate it.
But what made her Dior fall 2018 collection so controversial? First things first, Chiuri’s ideas for the fall 2018 season were inspired by an exhibition about the 1968 protests the designer saw in Rome recently, and which came just in time. This year marks France’s 50th anniversary of the notorious Paris students’ protests of 1968 that marked a turning point for the Western world, effecting not only students but also women.
Chiuri, whose philosophy for Dior is unapologetically close to international feminism, has found a more rebellious way to transmute it to fashion, celebrating the groundbreaking social wave with catchy slogans, peace signs, and clear late Sixties/ early-Seventies aesthetics, which were heavily reproduced through hippie sweaters (similar to some of LFW’s soigné evening sweaters), furs, leathery trousers, and of course tartan suits.
An army of tinted sunglasses and caps completed the scene, adding a sense of unity and strength that, very likely, could be subtly read as Chiuri’s way to support the #metoo movement.
That said, although the Dior fall/ winter 2018-2019 collection was undeniably filled with must-have staples that will quickly fly from PFW to any it-girl’s wardrobe, many are pointing out how repetitively the collection was presented, and how banal the core theme was. Sure, many fashion designers have already filtered their personal lens through the late Sixties era in the past forty years, but whatever one’s point of view is, we can’t help but highlight Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ability to intersperse timeless motifs with a more contemporary attitude, creating virally successful pieces that are predictably on everyone’s lips.
And guess what? The Dior fall 2018 collection was filled with balaclavas, like Calvin Klein’s, too, so those who are not that into the upcoming headgear trend should brace themselves for the inevitable balaclava-craze.
Saint Laurent Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
Anthony Vaccarello strikes again! With an 87-piece Saint Laurent fall 2018 collection (it was a co-ed format), presented at PFW on Tuesday, the Italian-Belgian designer left everybody speechless for sure, proving (once again) how gorgeously chic structuralism, the Eighties, and sensuality can harmoniously go hand in hand.
The collection, needless to say, was inspired by the Eighties, and was all things Saint Laurent, too. Despite the recurring dark-toned color palette (the lineup was almost solely black-tinted), the structured shoulders, and the plunging necklines and hems (if you love miniskirts and mini shorts Saint Laurent is the place to go, for sure), Vaccarello managed to somehow revisit everything in an even more erotic perspective, yet keeping it classic with a clear inclination for tactic proportions.
Every single staple was designed to accentuate the outfit’s it-item, whether it was the boots, the face-obscuring hats, or small details such as the structured shoulders.
As a result, Saint Laurent’s fall 2018 collection exuded both glitzy and elegant vibes all together, celebrating a mysteriously feminine seduction that, according to Vaccarello himself, was inspired by “the Russian collection of Monsieur Saint Laurent, but with more of a Parisian direction.”
To top it all off, he haloed the collection in a very empowering allure, inviting us not to be ashamed of our bodies. “For me, short is the best way to describe modernity,” he said backstage. “It’s the best way to walk…the legs are not something you have to hide.”
Lacoste Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
Apparently, it was one of Paris’ coldest days today and, due to the climate change, we could expect similar Siberian winds and bad weather in the years to come, too (which is frankly quite worrisome and disquieting).
While trying to combat global warming and still doing our daily basic tasks, Lacoste’s creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptista wants us to feel comfortably warm in his Lacoste fall 2018 collection’s pieces, which were a good mixture of urbanism, elegance, utilitarianism, and activewear.
Warm knit sweaters, reversible parkas, capes, jumpsuits and shearling boots were dominating the scene at Lacoste’s latest PFW runway show, putting onstage one of the coolest “granny-style-made-for-millennials” aesthetics we yet had to see at a PFW show.
Textured and cozy, each one of Lacoste’s fall 2018 items were meant to reflect a conscious philosophy that loves fashion as much as environmentalism, and which ultimately reached its peak with the collection’s closing ensembles that nodded at Lacoste’s ongoing partnership with the International Union for Conservation of Nature (in aid of 10 endangered pieces).
If there’s one thing we can’t really avoid, at this point, it is a breaking wave of sustainable fashion, and we are glad to see how coherent and consistent Lacoste appears to be in its eco commitment. Kudos to that, Lacoste!
Photos via Vogue