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PFW is any fashion lover’s trailblazing dream, and fashion houses Maison Margiela, Lanvin, and Dries Van Noten prove it season after season. For their fall 2018 collections, the labels overwhelmed us with a plethora of (even unexpected) dramatic fashions, reminding us about their legacy and imposing presence in the fashion industry.
Innovative and visionary, Maison Margiela’s, Lanvin’s, and Dries Van Noten’s creative directors have already launched next (or even this) season’s inescapable beauty and accessory trends. And we love them!
Maison Margiela Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
What’s the (un)natural evolution of a sci-fi fashion house? Although being quite the epitome of evolution, futuristic labels often neglect the “getting ready for the apocalypse” aspect of haute couture, focusing on a positive future of fashion made of neon lights and fancy tiny sunglasses.
While we are not complaining about either aspect of futuristic fashion, we were happy to see how distinguishably strong Maison Margiela’s fall 2018 collection turned out to be, as it surprised PFW with a utilitarian array of pieces meant to be worn during any apocalypse (which is something many are actually expecting, given what’s happening internationally with nuclear bombs, global warming, and wars).
Of course, with the apocalyptic collection being Maison Margiela’s, Galliano made sure to not leave any loose ends. Balaclavas, haute couture-esque raincoats, midi skirts, and heavily streetwear-inspired ensembles were dominating the scene, displaying what Galliano had in mind and paraphrased as “dressing in haste.”
Too polished to be defined as anti-fashion, Maison Margiela’s fall 2018 collection appeared to be a new hybrid that graciously and appealingly navigates across various oceans, drawing inspiration from more than one leitmotif and, in the end, allowing us to put up an incoherent outfit that, inexplicably, looks closer to haute couture than to fashion.
John Galliano, Zoolander’s Mugatu alter ego, might just have found the answer to all our desires.
Lanvin Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
After last year’s criticism, Lanvin’s (now not so) new creative director Olivier Lapidus may just have found his balanced dimension, wherein both he and Lanvin win.
For Lanvin’s fall 2018 collection, the designer got inspired by digital images of LED lights, transposing their vivid richness to a 36-piece lineup that was dynamically contemporary and exquisitely fluid at the same time.
The Lanvin fall 2018 collection’s color palette was, inevitably, extremely bright and variegated, with many shades being saturated to a slightly neon version. That’s also because, while trying to develop a coherent mood board, Lapidus carefully studied Krista Kim’s Techism movement (the main purpose of which is promoting dialogues between art and technology), along with Jeanne Lanvin’s artistic nature, creating something completely new out of such intricate leitmotifs.
Fashions aside, what Lapidus has in mind is a clear future aesthetic for Lanvin, which is and will always be a fashion house of consistency and quality rather than discontinuity and quantity.
“This woman is more fashion conscious than fashion victim,” he explained during a preview while talking about Lanvin’s buyer persona. “This brand stands for quality in a world that increasingly caters to the Internet with disposable fashion.”
In the long run, this philosophy could definitely pay back off his efforts.
Dries Van Noten Fall/ Winter 2018-2019 RTW Collection
Discreet and quiet Dries Van Noten is not so discreet when it comes to his runway shows, especially if they involve flashy prints and some makeup looks that are extravagant to say the least.
Presented as usual at PFW, Antwerp’s icon brought a dream and futuristic array of contemporary Eighties-inspired garments on stage, completing the looks with visionary makeup looks created by MUA Peter Philips.
“All the girls had big, colored lashes. We had chemical yellow, bright orange, deep purple, shocking blue, chartreuse, billiard green, and brick,” Philips revealed to Allure while talking about what’s destined to become next fall must-have look, i.e. neon eyelashes.
Makeup aside, which was undeniably a big part of the entire runway show, Dries Van Noten’s fall 2018 collection featured a good dose of it-items, too.
Pastel dresses, furs, chemical yellow coats, optical patterns, and tailored suits surely stood out from PFW’s crowd, also accentuating the contrast with the lineup’s more utilitarian staples, such as the parkas, the turtleneck sweaters, and the classic tweed pencil trousers.
Last but not least, Dries Van Noten went wild with the accessories as well, treating us to some of next year’s hottest tight-high boots.
Photos via Vogue